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CHF Owners · Filter Maintenance Guide

How to change your
CHF filters yourself.

A plain-English guide for Complete Home Filtration system owners. When to change, how to do it safely, what to watch for, and what to do if something doesn't look right. No jargon, no upsell — just the information you need.

Takes about 20–30 minutes No plumber required DIY-friendly
Know the Signs

When do your CHF
filters actually need changing?

Every 12 months is the standard recommendation — but your water quality and usage both affect the ideal interval. These are the signs to watch for between scheduled changes.

Chlorine taste or smell is back

If you're noticing the chlorine smell from the tap or shower again, your carbon block filter (Stage 3) is saturated. This is the clearest sign that a filter change is overdue.

Water pressure has dropped

A blocked sediment filter is the most common cause of reduced household water pressure in CHF systems. If pressure is noticeably lower than normal, check the sediment filter first.

Scale is building up again

White deposits returning to taps, showerheads or glass indicate the resin filter (Stage 2) is losing effectiveness. Scale protection diminishes as the resin approaches capacity.

12 months have passed

Even if you can't see obvious signs, filters degrade over time regardless of flow. Annual replacement is the safest approach — don't wait for performance problems before acting.

Sediment filter is heavily discoloured

If you can see the sediment filter is brown or heavily loaded, change all three filters regardless of how long they've been in. A compromised sediment stage stresses the downstream filters.

Skin or hair feels different after showers

One of the first things CHF owners notice when filters are fresh is how their skin and hair feel after a shower. If that benefit is fading, your carbon filter is likely saturated.

Step-by-Step

Changing your CHF filters —
the full process.

This covers the standard CHF 15" three-filter system. The process takes 20–30 minutes and requires no plumbing experience. You are not connecting or disconnecting pipework — just swapping cartridges inside existing housings.

1

Get your new filters and tools ready

You'll need your three replacement filter cartridges, the blue filter housing wrench that came with your CHF system, and a bucket or old towel for residual water. Optionally, some food-grade silicone grease for the O-ring seals is useful but not essential if the rings look fine.

Can't find the wrench? CHF housings can be stubborn — the spanner is important. If you've lost it, contact us before attempting it by hand as the housings can be over-tightened.
2

Turn the water to bypass

Locate the bypass valve on your CHF unit — typically a lever or knob on the side of the housing bracket. Turn it to the bypass position. This diverts water around the filter system so you can work on it without cutting supply to the house. Open a tap inside briefly to confirm water is still flowing via bypass.

No bypass valve? Turn off the main water supply at the meter instead. Open a tap to drain remaining pressure before proceeding.
3

Release pressure from the housings

Press the small red pressure relief button on the top of each filter housing. You'll hear a hiss as residual water pressure releases. Place your bucket or towel underneath before opening the housings — there will be some water remaining inside each one.

4

Remove and inspect each housing

Using the wrench, turn each housing counter-clockwise (left) to loosen it. Start with Stage 1 (sediment) — the housing closest to where water enters the system. Remove all three housings, catching water in your bucket. Take a moment to look at the old filters — the sediment filter in particular will show you how hard your water has been working.

Housings very tight? If a housing won't budge, try bracing with one hand on the head unit. Never use a standard wrench — the CHF spanner is designed to avoid overtightening on the next install.
5

Clean housings and check O-rings

Rinse each housing with clean water inside and out. Look at the rubber O-ring seal at the top rim of each housing — it should be pliable and smooth. If it looks dry, cracked or has lost its shape, apply a thin smear of food-grade silicone grease. A failing O-ring is the most common cause of leaks after a filter change.

6

Insert new cartridges into the correct housings

Match each new cartridge to its correct stage — PW-F-PP5 sediment goes in Stage 1, PW-F-RES resin in Stage 2, PW-F-CTO carbon block in Stage 3. Sit each cartridge centred in the housing. The cartridge should stand upright and not lean to one side — a tilted cartridge can cause uneven flow and reduce filter life.

7

Reattach housings — hand-tight then quarter turn

Thread each housing back onto the head by hand first, making sure it's not cross-threaded. Once hand-tight, use the wrench for a firm quarter-turn only — no more. Over-tightening is the second most common cause of leaks and makes the next change much harder.

8

Restore water and flush the filters

Turn the bypass valve back to the filtration position slowly. Watch all three housings carefully for drips as pressure builds. Run your kitchen tap for 2–3 minutes — you may notice slightly discoloured water initially as new carbon particles flush through. This is normal and will clear quickly. Then check all housings again for any slow drips.

Note the date. Write today's date on the top of each filter housing with a marker — you'll thank yourself in 12 months when you're working out when they were last changed.
Don't Skip the Change

What actually happens
when filters expire.

This is not about selling filters — it's about protecting the investment you've already made in your system.

Stage 1 — Sediment
Water pressure drops
A saturated sediment filter progressively restricts flow. In severe cases you'll notice the difference between running the shower and a tap simultaneously. The sediment filter is also protecting the resin and carbon stages — once it's overloaded, particles reach the downstream filters and shorten their life significantly.
Stage 2 — Resin
Scale protection fades
Ion exchange resin has a finite capacity. Once exhausted, calcium and magnesium ions pass through unaddressed and scale begins building again on your appliances, shower screens and taps. Hot water systems and dishwashers are most affected — scale builds up internally where you can't see it, reducing efficiency and lifespan.
Stage 3 — Carbon Block
Chlorine taste returns
Activated carbon has a finite adsorption capacity. When it's saturated, chlorine, chloramines and disinfection byproducts pass straight through. The taste and smell you noticed when you first got the system — and then forgot about — comes back. The shower benefit fades. Your skin and hair notice it first.
Troubleshooting

Something doesn't look
right after the change?

There's a drip from one of the housings
Turn off the water supply immediately. The most likely cause is the O-ring seal. Undo the housing, reseat or regrease the O-ring, and reattach. If the housing was over-tightened previously, the O-ring may have deformed — check its shape and replace it if it looks flattened or cracked. O-rings are inexpensive from any plumbing supplier.
Water pressure is lower than before the change
First check that the bypass valve is fully in the filtration position — a partially engaged bypass can restrict flow. Check that each housing is fully tightened. Also confirm that each new cartridge is sitting centred in its housing and not leaning, which can restrict the outlet flow path.
The water is slightly discoloured or has a taste after the change
Normal for the first 5–10 minutes after a carbon filter change. Fine carbon particles flush through initially and the water may look slightly grey. Run the tap until it clears. A slightly earthy or woody taste from a new carbon block is normal and fades quickly. If it persists after a day, call us.
I can't get one of the housings to loosen
Make sure the bypass is engaged before applying force. Hold the head unit firmly with one hand and apply the wrench counter-clockwise with the other. The housing spanner should give you enough leverage. If it's genuinely stuck — which can happen if it was over-tightened at the last change — call us on 0452 622 990 before trying anything improvised.
I can't find my housing wrench
The CHF filter housing wrench is a large blue plastic spanner specific to the housing size. If you've lost it, don't attempt to remove housings by hand or with a standard tool — the risk of cracking the housing or cross-threading is high. Contact us and we can help with installation as part of the $80 Perth metro service.
Never Miss a Change

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your filters are due.

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While you're here — need filters now?

PW Series compatible 3-filter set at introductory price $205. Ships Australia-wide.

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We can help.

PW Series compatible replacement filters — introductory $205 for a full 3-filter set. Ships Australia-wide.

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