Do I need a plumber to change CHF filters?

No. Replacing filter cartridges in an existing CHF system is a DIY task — no plumbing licence required. You are not connecting to the water supply, just swapping cartridges inside existing housings. A plumber is only required if you are modifying the plumbing connections themselves.

How often should I change Complete Home Filtration filters?

Every 12 months is the standard recommendation. In areas with higher TDS or heavier usage, checking the sediment filter at 9 months is worthwhile — if it is heavily discoloured, change all three filters regardless of the 12-month mark.

What happens if I don't change my CHF filters?

Expired filters progressively lose effectiveness. The sediment filter clogs and restricts water flow, causing pressure drops. The carbon filter becomes saturated and chlorine taste returns. The resin loses its ion exchange capacity and scale protection diminishes. In severe cases, a clogged sediment filter can reduce household water pressure significantly.

Can I use non-CHF filters in my system?

PW Series filters from ProperWater are compatible with Complete Home Filtration 15 inch systems. Under Australian Consumer Law, using compatible third-party consumables cannot void your warranty simply on the basis of brand — this is a well-established consumer right.

What tools do I need to change CHF filters?

You need the filter housing wrench that came with your CHF system, a bucket or towel for residual water, and optionally some food-grade silicone grease for the O-ring seals. The whole process takes around 20-30 minutes.

My water pressure dropped after changing filters — what's wrong?

Check that all three housings are firmly attached and not cross-threaded. Ensure the bypass valve is fully returned to the filtration position, not partially in bypass. Also check that the new cartridges are seated correctly in the centre of each housing. If pressure is still low, call us on 0452 622 990 and we can help diagnose.

There is a leak after I changed the filters — what do I do?

First turn off the water supply. Check the O-ring seal on the housing that is leaking — it may have shifted or dried out. Reapply food-grade silicone grease and re-seat the O-ring before reattaching the housing. If the leak persists, the O-ring may need replacing — call us on 0452 622 990.

How to Change CHF Filters — Step-by-Step Guide

How to change your
CHF filters yourself.

A plain-English guide for Complete Home Filtration system owners. When to change, how to do it safely, what to watch for, and what to do if something doesn't look right. No jargon, no upsell — just the information you need.

Takes about 20–30 minutes No plumber required DIY-friendly

Know the Signs

When do your CHF
filters actually need changing?

Every 12 months is the standard recommendation — but your water quality and usage both affect the ideal interval. These are the signs to watch for between scheduled changes.

Chlorine taste or smell is back

If you're noticing the chlorine smell from the tap or shower again, your carbon block filter (Stage 3) is saturated. This is the clearest sign that a filter change is overdue.

Water pressure has dropped

A blocked sediment filter is the most common cause of reduced household water pressure in CHF systems. If pressure is noticeably lower than normal, check the sediment filter first.

Scale is building up again

White deposits returning to taps, showerheads or glass indicate the resin filter (Stage 2) is losing effectiveness. Scale protection diminishes as the resin approaches capacity.

12 months have passed

Even if you can't see obvious signs, filters degrade over time regardless of flow. Annual replacement is the safest approach — don't wait for performance problems before acting.

Sediment filter is heavily discoloured

If you can see the sediment filter is brown or heavily loaded, change all three filters regardless of how long they've been in. A compromised sediment stage stresses the downstream filters.

Skin or hair feels different after showers

One of the first things CHF owners notice when filters are fresh is how their skin and hair feel after a shower. If that benefit is fading, your carbon filter is likely saturated.

Changing your CHF filters —
the full process.

This covers the standard CHF 15" three-filter system. The process takes 20–30 minutes and requires no plumbing experience. You are not connecting or disconnecting pipework — just swapping cartridges inside existing housings.

Get your new filters and tools ready

You'll need your three replacement filter cartridges, the blue filter housing wrench that came with your CHF system, and a bucket or old towel for residual water. Optionally, some food-grade silicone grease for the O-ring seals is useful but not essential if the rings look fine.

Can't find the wrench? CHF housings can be stubborn — the spanner is important. If you've lost it, contact us before attempting it by hand as the housings can be over-tightened.

Turn the water to bypass

Locate the bypass valve on your CHF unit — typically a lever or knob on the side of the housing bracket. Turn it to the bypass position. This diverts water around the filter system so you can work on it without cutting supply to the house. Open a tap inside briefly to confirm water is still flowing via bypass.

No bypass valve? Turn off the main water supply at the meter instead. Open a tap to drain remaining pressure before proceeding.

Release pressure from the housings

Press the small red pressure relief button on the top of each filter housing. You'll hear a hiss as residual water pressure releases. Place your bucket or towel underneath before opening the housings — there will be some water remaining inside each one.

Remove and inspect each housing

Using the wrench, turn each housing counter-clockwise (left) to loosen it. Start with Stage 1 (sediment) — the housing closest to where water enters the system. Remove all three housings, catching water in your bucket. Take a moment to look at the old filters — the sediment filter in particular will show you how hard your water has been working.

A used sediment cartridge stained deep brown being lifted from its housing during a filter change — This is what "working hard" looks like — a sediment cartridge lifted out after a year. Yours may be lighter or darker depending on your supply and how long it has been in.

Housings very tight? If a housing won't budge, try bracing with one hand on the head unit. Never use a standard wrench — the CHF spanner is designed to avoid overtightening on the next install.

Clean housings and check O-rings

Rinse each housing with clean water inside and out. Look at the rubber O-ring seal at the top rim of each housing — it should be pliable and smooth. If it looks dry, cracked or has lost its shape, apply a thin smear of food-grade silicone grease. A failing O-ring is the most common cause of leaks after a filter change.

Insert new cartridges into the correct housings

Match each new cartridge to its correct stage — PW-F-1545C-PP5 sediment goes in Stage 1, PW-M-RES-2500 resin in Stage 2, PW-F-1545C-CTOC5 carbon block in Stage 3. Sit each cartridge centred in the housing. The cartridge should stand upright and not lean to one side — a tilted cartridge can cause uneven flow and reduce filter life.

Reattach housings — hand-tight then quarter turn

Thread each housing back onto the head by hand first, making sure it's not cross-threaded. Once hand-tight, use the wrench for a firm quarter-turn only — no more. Over-tightening is the second most common cause of leaks and makes the next change much harder.

Restore water and flush the filters

Turn the bypass valve back to the filtration position slowly. Watch all three housings carefully for drips as pressure builds. Run your kitchen tap for 2–3 minutes — you may notice slightly discoloured water initially as new carbon particles flush through. This is normal and will clear quickly. Then check all housings again for any slow drips.

Note the date. Write today's date on the top of each filter housing with a marker — you'll thank yourself in 12 months when you're working out when they were last changed.

What actually happens
when filters expire.

This is not about selling filters — it's about protecting the investment you've already made in your system.

A whole-home filter unit opened for service with used cartridges and housings laid out on the grass

A full set out for changing. The brown cartridge is the sediment stage; the others handle taste, odour and hardness — each one reaches a point where it stops earning its place.

Stage 1 — Sediment

Water pressure drops

A saturated sediment filter progressively restricts flow. In severe cases you'll notice the difference between running the shower and a tap simultaneously. The sediment filter is also protecting the resin and carbon stages — once it's overloaded, particles reach the downstream filters and shorten their life significantly.

Stage 2 — Resin

Scale protection fades

Ion exchange resin has a finite capacity. Once exhausted, calcium and magnesium ions pass through unaddressed and scale begins building again on your appliances, shower screens and taps. Hot water systems and dishwashers are most affected — scale builds up internally where you can't see it, reducing efficiency and lifespan.

Stage 3 — Carbon Block

Chlorine taste returns

Activated carbon has a finite adsorption capacity. When it's saturated, chlorine, chloramines and disinfection byproducts pass straight through. The taste and smell you noticed when you first got the system — and then forgot about — comes back. The shower benefit fades. Your skin and hair notice it first.

Something doesn't look
right after the change?

There's a drip from one of the housings

Turn off the water supply immediately. The most likely cause is the O-ring seal. Undo the housing, reseat or regrease the O-ring, and reattach. If the housing was over-tightened previously, the O-ring may have deformed — check its shape and replace it if it looks flattened or cracked. O-rings are inexpensive from any plumbing supplier.

Water pressure is lower than before the change

First check that the bypass valve is fully in the filtration position — a partially engaged bypass can restrict flow. Check that each housing is fully tightened. Also confirm that each new cartridge is sitting centred in its housing and not leaning, which can restrict the outlet flow path.

The water is slightly discoloured or has a taste after the change

Normal for the first 5–10 minutes after a carbon filter change. Fine carbon particles flush through initially and the water may look slightly grey. Run the tap until it clears. A slightly earthy or woody taste from a new carbon block is normal and fades quickly. If it persists after a day, call us.

I can't get one of the housings to loosen

Make sure the bypass is engaged before applying force. Hold the head unit firmly with one hand and apply the wrench counter-clockwise with the other. The housing spanner should give you enough leverage. If it's genuinely stuck — which can happen if it was over-tightened at the last change — call us on 0452 622 990 before trying anything improvised.

I can't find my housing wrench

The CHF filter housing wrench is a large blue plastic spanner specific to the housing size. If you've lost it, don't attempt to remove housings by hand or with a standard tool — the risk of cracking the housing or cross-threading is high. Contact us and we can help with installation as part of the $60 Perth metro service.

Get a reminder when
your filters are due.

Leave your details and the date you last changed your filters. We'll send you a single reminder email when they're due — no subscription, no marketing emails, just a useful nudge at the right time.

It costs nothing and you can unsubscribe any time. We won't use your email for anything else.

While you're here — need filters now?

PW Series compatible 3-filter set at introductory price $240. Ships Australia-wide.

Complete Home Filtration Replacement Filters →

How to change your
CHF filters yourself.